Why watch collectors like what they are seeing at Tudor and TAG Heuer

Both brands offer not just good watches, but good value, good stories, and a good time; just what today's collectors want argues Ross Povey.

Is it possible for a watch brand to be both accessible and deeply desirable?

In a world where certain models from certain maisons are nearly impossible to obtain, thanks to supposed scarcity, surging demand, or opaque waitlists, two names continue to strike the right balance between attainability and collectability, Tudor and TAG Heuer.

At Watches and Wonders this year, brands wowed press with novelties that in many cases will be years away from ownership for collectors. Tudor and TAG Heuer, however, consistently offer something refreshingly different.

As the press and retailers were invited to see and handle the new releases at the show, collectors were being invited to try them on, and in many cases, buy them, at their local authorised retailers who were pump-primed ready with stock.

On the day of the launches, social media feeds were filled with hands-on photos and wrist shots from collectors of the new Black Bay 58 and the Solargraph, rather than just carefully lit campaign imagery or journalists’ fast pics.

This kind of meritocratic access is precisely what many in the collecting community are craving.

It’s not just about availability either.

The second layer of accessibility for both brands is financial.

Now, of course, we’re still operating within the context of luxury. Spending $3,000 to $5,000 on a watch is not something most people would consider “affordable.”

But within the enthusiast community, and for brands with this kind of history, it represents value.

And while both brands have elevated offerings (think Tudor’s $32k solid gold BB58 or TAG’s Carrera Tourbillon), the majority of their core models remain within reach of most serious collectors.

But what really sets Tudor and TAG Heuer apart is the way their products connect with history, how their stories are told and retold, not just in marketing decks, but through the watches themselves.

Take the TAG Heuer Carrera. First introduced in 1963, the Carrera wasn’t just a stylish chronograph, it was purpose-built, born from the high-speed chaos of the Mexican Carrera Panamericana road race.

That motorsport DNA has never left the line. Whether we’re talking about the classic 2447, the left-field brilliance of the Calibre 11, or today’s sleek collaborations with Porsche, the Carrera has evolved without losing its soul.

TAG Heuer’s modern Carrera chronographs are many collectors’ perfect combination of heritage, style and affordability.

It’s a watch that looks forward while honouring where it came from—and collectors, more than anyone, notice that.

It’s the same story with Tudor’s Black Bay line, and most recently the Black Bay 58.

The 2025 edition draws on three key historical threads; the legendary Big Crown Submariner from 1958; the angular snowflake hands introduced in the late ’60s; and a lesser-known prototype Submariner from the 1990s that featured a bold red dial and bezel.

The result? A watch that looks firmly modern but feels unmistakably rooted in Tudor’s dive watch heritage.

This is the kind of depth that resonates with the collector community.

That resonance becomes even more powerful when it’s part of a two-way conversation.

Both brands are known for their engagement with enthusiasts, not just through social media campaigns or “influencer” partnerships, but through genuine, boots-on-the-ground initiatives that foster dialogue, learning and appreciation.

Tudor’s commitment to this community was made crystal clear a few years ago when David Duggan, one of the UK’s most respected vintage dealers, was awarded official retailer status.

It marked a clear acknowledgment of the bridge between vintage and modern, something Tudor has leaned into again and again, whether through its early days “Heritage” reissues or its collector events.

At some of these evenings, vintage pieces from the brand’s own archives were displayed alongside modern releases, while collectors brought their personal Tudor grails to discuss. It wasn’t a sales pitch, it was a celebration.

TAG Heuer has taken a similarly hands-on approach.

The 2024 Heuer Collector’s Summit brought together around 30 vintage Heuer die-hards for three full days in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

@tagheuer Celebrating a collective passion for watchmaking, we were thrilled to welcome an exclusive group of connoisseurs to the TAG Heuer Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds for the 2024 Collector’s Summit. #TAGHeuer ♬ original sound – tagheuer

Hosted by Heritage Director Nicholas Biebuyck, the summit was a rare opportunity for collectors to go behind the scenes at TAG HQ and explore the brand’s vast archives.

Among the highlights? Previously unseen prototypes, private viewings, and animated debates over obscure reference variants — exactly the kind of nerdery that serious collectors live for.

Avid Tudor collector Matt, better known as P&L Watch Collection on IG was first drawn to the brand through its current lines, but soon got drawn down the vintage rabbit hole: “The first time I saw a Black Bay Burgundy, I was hooked—the aluminium bezel and gilt accents just popped. Holding it made me want to learn more. Each modern Tudor I bought opened the door to vintage, and now my collection spans both. Despite the decades between them, they share the same tool watch DNA. Tudor is humble, honest, and hard-working—what’s not to love?”

It can also work the other way too. Regarded as the world’s leading authority on vintage Heuer watches, Arno Haslinger can also be tempted by the brand’s modern output: “TAG Heuer’s history is full of bold moves—from powering McLaren’s turbocharged dominance in the ’80s to reimagining timekeeping in motorsport. The 1985 merger gave us the TAG Heuer name, and those early models are now vintage treasures. Since the LVMH takeover, the brand has shaped a deep and well-structured portfolio. For collectors, it’s a dream — emotive, historical, and layered. Pieces like the Super Professional PVD or the Jack Heuer Autavia 85th anniversary edition always put a smile on my face. There’s still so much to explore.”

Tag Heuer Super Professional. Picture courtesy of Vintagewatchspecialist.com

This duality of approachability and depth, modernity and history, is what makes Tudor and TAG Heuer so compelling.

While other brands guard their heritage like a museum exhibit or treat scarcity as a virtue in itself, these two continue to bring their stories to life in a way that is both democratic and engaging.

There’s also something else at play. While both brands are, of course, owned by major luxury groups (Tudor by Rolex and TAG Heuer by LVMH), they operate with a degree of autonomy that gives their creative teams freedom to experiment.

That might mean a bronze dive watch on a fabric strap or a wild skeletonised Carrera with pops of neon red, but it also means genuine risk-taking in how they engage with customers and how they embrace transparency.

In an era where hype often trumps horology, that counts for something. A lot, in fact.

Collectors today aren’t just looking for watches. They’re looking for brands they can trust, engage with, and grow alongside.

Brands that offer not just good watches, but good value, good stories, and a good time.

Tudor and TAG Heuer continue to deliver on all fronts. That’s why, when it comes to collecting — these two still have it down to a T.

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