A resurgence of classical watch designs is predominately being led by the growing popularity of watchmakers immersed in the world of jewelry, such as Cartier, Boucheron, Piaget and Chopard.
Diamond Watches London’s Danny Shahid explains why watch enthusiasts, collectors and investors are seeking unique and esoteric timepieces that stand out in an era dominated by larger sports watches:
“One of the most intriguing aspects of this trend is the revival of interest in classical watch designs from the 1970s and 80s. In a world where technology is rapidly advancing, there is a palpable yearning for the simplicity of the past.
Fashion has also cycled back to the 1980s with nostalgic nods to bright colours and strong shapes, and those same themes are becoming more prevalent across the vintage watch market.
Cartier’s rise
Largely created by Cartier’s growing popularity in the last few years, small watches have sparked a renewed appreciation for vintage aesthetics.
These more delicate timepieces are not just accessories but symbols of a bygone era, representing a return to sophistication.
While the watchmakers who create jewellery (or jewellers who make watches) have been most affected, other brands which made smaller dress watches throughout the 1980s are also seeing their stock rise, such as Breguet and Blancpain.
The influence of this decade is perfectly encapsulated in watches like the Cartier Ceinture, Breguet Classique Moonphase, Boucheron Reflet and all the various Cartier Tank-style watches.
Statement designs
The Cartier Ceinture, with its distinctive octagonal shape and elegant lines, commands attention without being overly ostentatious due to its delicate size.
Boasting a unique straight bar central lug system like the Cartier Vendome, the Ceinture showcases Cartier’s ability to express a strong sense of design without having to go too far out there aesthetically.
The Breguet Classique, with its intricate detailing, small diameter coin-edge case and elaborate guilloche dial, offers a glimpse into the meticulous artistry of traditional watchmaking.
These watches are more than just timekeepers; they are works of art that tell a story of innovation and tradition – both stories that collectors are looking to re-explore.
The Cartier Vendome is another watch that has caught the eye of collectors on the back of Cartier’s exponential rise in popularity.
It’s simple round case and plain white dial with black Roman numerals are both nods to classical design, while its overall aesthetic remains timeless.
Neo-vintage
Neo-vintage watches are serving as a bridge between the vibrant designs of the past and the established favourites of today’s sports watch-fuelled craze.
Neo-vintage examples of watches like the Patek Philippe Aquanaut (the ref. 5065) are experiencing big spikes in demand.
While the Aquanaut is a staple in modern high-end watch collections, the ref. 5065’s neo-vintage appeal lies in its ability to balance contemporary style with a hint of vintage charm, as it represents a halfway house between the bold designs of the 1980s/90s and the sleek, modern aesthetics that dominate today’s market.
Conclusion
This blending of old and new is at the heart of the current trend in watch collecting. Enthusiasts are looking to expand their acquisitions with pieces that are not only unique but also esoteric and quirky, standing out from the crowd to spark a conversation.
The classical watch trend reflects a broader shift in consumer behaviour, as people desire products that offer a deep nostalgic connection through their history, craftsmanship or design.
Audemars Piguet recently released the [RE]Master02, a new limited edition collection inspired by an incredibly rare asymmetrical, angular design they created in 1959 and produced until 1963.
Watches like the Cartier Crash or the Cartier Tank (and all of the derivative Tank-style watches that brands like Chopard, Piaget and others have launched) are more popular than ever, and reflect a cultural trend towards unique and meaningful retro products.