The Fifties collide with the Sixties in a surprise (and surprisingly refreshing) drop from TAG Heuer, one year on from the 60th anniversary of its Carrera chronograph and in the year when everything seem blanket-dominated by Formula 1 sponsorship and associated relaunch of the F1 watch of the Eighties.
Limited to just 500 pieces, the 42mm model pays subtle tribute to the ‘Seafarer’ tide-indication watches that the Swiss watchmaker made for the historic American sporting label Abercrombie & Fitch in the Fifties – a chronograph spin-off of Heuer’s Forties ‘Solunar’, whose indicator was masterminded by Jack Heuer’s (aged 15) school physics teacher, according to the then-scion of the family dynasty in his ‘The Times of My Life’ memoir.
A tribute to Heuer’s regatta heritage, the chronograph minutes subdial at 3 o’clock includes quartered segments in turquoise and silver – reminiscent of the original regatta countdown timers. A deep blue dial is highlighted by vibrant yellow touches too, reflecting the tidal-time indicators now so collectable thanks to other throwbacks at the hands of recent Hodinkee x TAG Heuer ‘Skipper’ collabs.
The Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer pictured below – made white-label by Heuer in 1952 for the American sporting brand – was sold by Phillips last year for $43,180, despite a low estimate of $15,000.
The new Carrera is powered by TAG’s latest Caliber TH20-00 (an upgrade of the Heuer 02, made at TAG’s Chevenez facility), offering bi-directional winding, an 80-hour power reserve, and visible through a sapphire crystal caseback engraved with its unique number.
Functional features include triangular 5-minute markers on the flange for optimum legibility – an enduring signature of the Carrera line – and a date window at 6 o’clock. The hands and markers are coated in Super-LumiNova® for enhanced visibility.
It might be all about Formula 1 this year, with LVMH Group hoardings replacing Rolex wholesale at every corner of every GP circuit, but it’s good to be reminded of how Heuer and the modern ‘TAG’ Heuer once rode the waves as well as wheels.
€7,350, tagheuer.com