According to color expert Pantone, we are living in the year of mocha mousse, a hue somewhere between coffee and chocolate, or to vintage watch aficionados, the look of a perfect tropical dial.
2025 might also be described as the year of ceramic, with the light and scratch-resistant material finding its way into the catalogues of watchmakers ranging from Rado and Hublot (obviously) to Piaget, Bremont and IWC.
Louis Vuitton is embracing both trends with a new version of its Tambour watch in an irresistible combination of rose gold and chocolate colored ceramic.
Ceramic is not easy to work with, and it is also challenging to create the material with a consistent color, in this case a specific brown inspired by the shade of Louis Vuitton’s travel trunks.
The brown of the case and complementary shades of brown on the watch’s stepped dial contrast with white and 18ct rose gold accents. The watch’s hands, for example, are golden shards filled with white lume.
Tambour watches have typically been finished with a combination of brushed and polished facets, and Louis Vuitton has carried this through to the case, lugs and bracelet of the ceramic piece.
The bracelet is a particularly impressive piece of design and engineering. It has no exposed pins because the ceramic links fit into an articulated rose gold backbone.
It runs on the chronometer-certified Louis Vuitton LFT023 automatic movement with a 22ct gold rotor generating power that will last 50 hours without being wound.
Using a micro rotor saves height in an automatic movement, and has allowed Louis Vuitton to keep the new Tambour at a wearable 40mm x 8.3mm case size.
The ceramic watch will retail for $68,000.
Gem-set Tambour
Louis Vuitton has not stopped at a new ceramic model in the Tambour collection, the fashion house has also introduced a status upgrade at the top of the collection.
There are two new pieces, one in platinum the other in yellow gold.
They are set with either a rainbow configuration of sapphires and rubies or saffron-colored sapphires framing an onyx stone dial.
The yellow gold piece with onyx and amber sapphires is a limited edition of 30 while the rainbow edition is limited to just 50 for the world.
The architecture, design and engineering of the watches is in line with all Tambours since their 2023 relaunch: 40mm x 8.3mm drum-shaped cases housing the automatic LFT023.01 movement.
Louis Vuitton’s Tambour in gold with onyx and sapphires is retailing for $118,000. The Rainbow edition is $136,000.
