Herbelin’s creative director Mathieu Herbelin tells Harriet Whitaker how a new generation of leaders at the French family firm uses design to stay relevant to watch-loving men and women.
I was relatively new to the world of watches in November last year when I had the opportunity to browse the thousands of watches that were presented at WatchPro Salon, writes Watch- Pro’s Harriet Whitaker.
The Antarès, which I learned is the Herbelin’s most popular women’s design, caught my eye straight away. I couldn’t stay away from the stand and bought one that day.
The First Lady of France wears the same model as me, so I’d like to think I have good taste. Unlike most mainstream watchmakers, Herbelin is as passionate about women’s watches as it is about men’s, but the focus can change from one year to the next and right now the French business is applying itself to its more masculine collections.
The past three years has seen a transition at the top of the company from one generation of the Herbelin family to the next.
Creative director, Mathieu Herbelin, describes himself, his brother and cousins as “the new kids on the block” who have been passed the torch down to continue the family legacy.
The current Herbelin leadership is made up of Maxime and Mathieu Herbelin, grandsons of the company’s founder, Michel Herbelin.
Maxime acts as marketing director, Mathieu as creator director, alongside Cédric Gomez-Montiel, the company’s CEO, and Benjamin Theurillat, export director.
All four have equal shares in the company and work collaboratively as a tight-knit unit.
Mathieu expresses his pride and gratefulness for his grandfather, father and uncle, who worked to build the company into what it is today. “We are the new generation, four of us 100% involved and specialised in our domains,” he said.
Having previously worked as an architect, Mathieu explains that the transition into his position as creative director at his grandfather’s company was a relatively smooth one. “We were handed the business as a success from my grandfather, my father and my uncle,” he tells WatchPro.
“They were learning on the job while building the foundations. When we took over, it was a total reorganisation of the board of the company, but we still kept the company’s values and all the people who had made it great.”
As Herbelin sets out to put the spotlight on its new design, Mathieu talks me through the reasoning for the shift in focus. “Since my childhood, Herbelin has always been known for its French flair and style especially for ladies’ watches,” he summarises.
“Our new strategy is to be seen more as a serious watchmaker for both women and men.” Mathieu laughs as he explains that, while questioning everything, he is determined not to alter the DNA of Herblin.
“My goal was to renew the brand without killing its soul.” Wanting to appeal to a wider audience, including more young people, Mathieu and the team are striving to introduce Herbelin to those who are unfamiliar with the brand and watchmaking, as something that everyone can enjoy.
Amongst Herbelin’s new releases are three standout men’s watches: the Newport Heritage Chronograph Bi- Compax, the Cap Camarat Auto Diver and the Cap Camarat Auto Skeleton.
Celebrating the 35th anniversary of its iconic Newport collection last year, the Newport Héritage Chronograph line joins the collection, building on the success of its predecessor.
The new watch offers a 42mm by 14mm stainless steel case, which pays homage to the original 1888 piece.
It also features a Panda dial encircled with a black ceramic bezel, and is the first model to be unveiled is calibrated for urban adventures with a power reserve of 62 hours and self-winding mechanism.
Women’s watches are certainly not being forgotten by Herbelin, with the Newport Ceramic 35th Anniversary being a top choice.
With its high-tech materials, designer look, and chic colours, this two-hand timepiece has never been as minimalist in its expression of the Newport’s hallmark characteristics.
Powered by an automatic movement, this timepiece comes in two diameters (38mm and 43mm), with just 500 numbered pieces produced in each size.
Finally, two brand new watches join the Cap Camarat series: Diver and Skeleton. Inspired by the sea and sailing, Mathieu describes this collection as the “little sister” to the Newport collection that is ever-evolving and provides watches “you can wear any time and in any situation.”
The Cap Camarat Automatic Diver comes with not only Sellita SW-200 Swiss automatic movement, but also a power reserve of 41 hours and water resistant up to 200 metres.
Its striking orange strap is complemented by the 42mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal bezel and see-through back.
Its companion, the Cap Camarat Square Automatic Skeleton, is slightly different with its 39mm case and royal blue Newport FKM strap.
Next steps in the “relaunch” of Herbelin include continuing to develop its presence in the UK market, as well as in India and Indonesia this year, with prospects of expanding into China in the near future.
The recent opening of a Herbelin boutique in Paris has also seen success. “It is located in one of the best neighbourhoods in Paris and has drawn the attention of not only the locals, but also tourists from all over the world,” Mathieu says with pride.
“It is the best advertising we could offer to the brand, given that we show our whole collection the way it deserves to be shown: in a proper and dedicated environment.”
Being a family-owned company, it is easy to tell that there is an ingrained passion put into the process of watchmaking. Mathieu gets a visit from his son during our interview, who may just be one of the new face of the Herbelin brand in 20 years’ time.