Despite it being the month of newness coming out of Geneva, the aesthetic mood is undeniably one of vintage inspirations.
At Salone del Mobile in Milan last week, WatchPro spoke to Matthieu Le Voyer, chief marketing officer at Jaeger-LeCoultre – a brand arguably synonymous with Art Deco – who identified vintage as the biggest trend in watchmaking right now, holding space in particular for the resurgence of guichet watches.
Translated from French as “ticket window”, the unconventional, historically niche design sees time displayed through rotating disks visible through the apertures, with the hours jumping to the next hour and the minutes dragging across the display.
Popularized by the sartorial icon and jazz musician Duke Ellington who made the original (then limited-edition) Cartier Tank à Guichets his style signature in the 1930s, the pre-digital timepiece was way ahead of its time, and according to watchmaking legend can be dated back to 1656 when Pope Alexander VII requested a silent clock that wouldn’t disrupt his sleep.
The Campani brothers delivered, creating the first wandering hour clock that also happened to be a decorative masterpiece, using an oil lamp to cast light on rotating numerals, as well as stunning motifs of floral and fauna, mythological figures, and religious symbols.
Fast forward a couple of hundred years and guichet watches have transcended the avant-garde to become a symbol of understated style, in no small part thanks to Cartier and its 2025 rerelease at Watches and Wonders – of which many have crowned winner of the fair.
But the Tank isn’t the only option in town, and we’ve edited some of the best guichet watches that deserve a moment.
Audemars Piguet John Schaeffer Jump Hour
The Audemars Piguet “John Shaeffer” Jump Hour Minute Repeater is a rare and charming timepiece, crafted in steel and precious metals. Its 34mm cushion-shaped case combines brushed and polished finishes with sapphire crystal windows displaying the quirky jump hour and disc minutes. Powered by the hand-finished AP Caliber 2865, it features a minute repeater complication visible in action, and was originally priced at $188,000.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence
Louis Vuitton debuted its first in-house automatic movement, the LFT MA01.01, in the new Tambour Convergence collection. Developed at La Fabrique du Temps, this model features a 45-hour power reserve and an 18ct pink gold rotor, beautifully finished and visible through an exhibition case back. Available in pink gold with a mirror finish or platinum set with 795 diamonds, they’re paired with beige or blue leather straps respectively.
POA, louisvuitton.com
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Bronze
The Terra Nova Jumping Hour Bronze blends early 20th-century military watch design with modern innovation. Its 38mm cushion-shaped case is made from vertically brushed cupro-aluminum bronze which develops a rich patina over time. Powered by the exclusive BC634 Jumping Hour caliber, it displays time through linear apertures with a compass-inspired sweeping seconds hand. Limited to 100 pieces, it’s available with a brushed bronze bracelet or vintage-style tan leather strap.
$5,200, bremont.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième
Celebrating 90 years of Reverso, this Jaeger-LeCoultre model features a 49.4 × 29.9 mm pink gold swiveling case with a classic rectangular dial displaying the date, moonphase, and small seconds, revealing a semi-jumping hour display and night/day indicator with enamel decoration. Powered by the hand-wound Caliber 826, derived from the Duoface’s 853/854, it operates at 3Hz with a 42-hour power reserve.
IWC Tribute To Pallweber Edition ‘150 Years’
The IWC Tribute To Pallweber Edition ‘150 Years’ is a 45mm red gold wristwatch featuring a jumping hours and minutes digital display, inspired by IWC’s 1880s Pallweber pocket watches. It houses the in-house Caliber 94200, running at 28,800 vph with a 60-hour power reserve. Limited to 250 pieces, the watch’s white lacquer dial echoes its historical roots. Originally priced at $36,600. Notably, it’s one of the few wristwatches with a three-disk jumping time system.
Cartier Tank à Guichets
The list wouldn’t be complete without the timepiece that really got us talking. First introduced in 1928, the historic Tank à Guichets watch is powered by the hand-wound 9755 MC movement. The updated models feature non-water-resistant cases measuring 37.6 × 24.8 × 6mm. One version mirrors the 1928 layout, available in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum, while a 200-piece limited edition in platinum repositions the display diagonally, with vertical hours and angled minutes.
POA, cartier.com