WOTY 2014: Patek Philippe Ref. 5990/1A


Winner, Luxury Watch of the Year 2014

The Nautilus offers perhaps the most handsome, stylish watch silhouette you are ever likely to see on someone’s wrist. There’s no mistaking its delicious form and no confusing it with any other designs that sprang from the mind of Gerald Genta.

Refined and debonair, the Nautilus rarely looks better than in its simplest, steel form, ref. 5711/1A, with complication sub-registers often seeming to confuse and defuse the simple strength of the central design. So it was a huge surprise to be introduced to the ref. 5990/1A at Basel this year.

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Not only does the new Nautilus bear both chronograph and dual time zone functions, a Patek first, but it does so with symmetry and balance. . Time-zone adjustment is taken care of by two buttons cleverly shaped to form the far shoulder of the case, while chrono pushers sit above and below the crown. Using four central hands and matching date and 60-minute chrono dials at 12 and 6 o’clock positions as well as day and night indicators for both time zones sitting along the horizontal axis, the 5990/1A never looks anything other than perfectly poised.

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James Buttery

The author James Buttery

Editor of WatchPro, the WatchPro Hot 100 and The Luxury Report.