If you have ever owned a pair of loafers, a handbag or a belt by Salvatore Ferragamo you will instantly recognize the interconnecting buckles that look like handcuffs that the Italian fashion house has been using since the 1970s.
It is known as the ‘gancini’, an Italian word for a small metal clasp, and is used extensively across this season’s watch collections, which are made under license by Timex Luxury Group.
The most striking example is the Double Gancini collection, a Swiss quartz family that uses the symbol as a sculptural piece of IP gold jewelry that has a rectangular 13 mmx 23mm watch head at its center with a red cabochon on the crown and silver sunray dials.
Prices range from $995 to $1,295.
The Gancini is considerably more subtle in the Duo and Urban collections. The Duo are classical three-handers with a date at 3 o’clock and the double Gancini, which could be described as a figure 8, located at 8 o’clock. They come in his and her’s 40mm and 33mm bi-color stainless steel and IP rose gold cases housing Ronda quartz movements.
There are silver, green, gold or brown guillochè dials in the family, with 14 diamonds used to pick out the hour markers at the top end of the collection selling for $1,045 to $1,595 with diamonds.
The Urban collection is the most sporty of this season’s Ferragamo watches, and the most youthful thanks to the black silicon straps proudly embossed with Ferragamo.
Double Gancinis feature again, this time within a small seconds subdial at the bottom of a black guillochè dial that also has a date wheel to the top right. 43mm IP rose gold cases house Swiss Ronda quartz movements. They are priced at $895 to $1,295.
Only the feminine Vara collection eschews the double Gancini, and instead takes its design cues from Vara pumps, the iconic low-healed slipper designed by Fiamma Ferragamo in the 1970s.
The connection is less obvious but relates to the red Ferragamo leather strap that slips through the back of the 28mm x 35mm IP yellow gold case with a red cabochon on its crown, giving the appearance of the bow that adorns the toe end of Vara shoes. Once again, the collection uses Ronda quartz movements and they go on sale in October for $995 to $1,295.