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Riding the green watch wave

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Pre-owned watch specialist Watchfinder & Co. is seeing unprecedented demand for green-faced watches following a spike in the number of brands focusing on the colour.

Eighteen green watches were launched at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, the company records.

Whether these launches, and those in previous years from the likes of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, are creating demand, or just reacting to it, is a debating point, but demand there is, as Watchfinder investigates in this report on some of the hottest green watches in its inventory.

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The History Behind Green Timepieces:

The watch industry’s love for green timepieces began nearly 20 years ago.

Rolex is often associated with green, not just because of its green logo font, but also because the brand is considered the pioneer of green watches.

The Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” was released in 2004 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Submariner.

Featuring a 40mm stainless steel case with a green bezel surrounding a black dial and an oyster bracelet, the watch is often discussed as the first popular green watch of modern times.

Launched in 2003, Rolex’s Kermit watch marked the beginning of green watches, and it has been popping up everywhere since then.

Shop the Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” here.

The Kermit watch was so popular that Rolex later released the Rolex Submariner 126610LV, a ceramic version of the 2004 “Kermit”.

Shop the Rolex Submariner 126610LV here.

Following the success of the Kermit watch, Rolex released another luxury green watch: the ceramic Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk”—which to this day remains one of, if not the most sought-after green watch, despite being discontinued in 2020.

Since then, the Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” is only available to purchase through pre-owned specialists. Watch-lovers frequently explore pre-owned luxury watch sellers to purchase the rare and classic Hulk watch.

The Hulk watch shares similar features with the Kermit watch, but it embodies a Cerachrom bezel and a green dial, making it more popular among green fanatics.

Shop the Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” here.

But it’s not just Rolex using the colour green. At  Watches & Wonders last year, iconic brands displayed green timepieces: Jaeger-LeCoultre with the Reverso, Piaget with the Polo and Altiplano lines, and Tudor with the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K Yellow Gold.

This year’s Watches & Wonders had IWC and Patek Philippe adopt the colour as a staple for its collections.

Green is also commanding high valuations.

An olive dialled Patek Philippe Nautilus sold for $470,000 at an Antiquorum’s auction—despite only having a retail price of around $35,000.

Audemars Piguet introduced a stunning smoked green “Jumbo” Royal Oak, and Omega introduced its green Seamaster and Speedmaster models.

One fun fact: the world’s most expensive green watch is the Richard Mille RM 52-06 Green Emerald “Mask” Tourbillon, with an approximate price tag of $2.5 Million—now that’s a lot of green.

Watchfinder’s favourite Green Watches:

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

The luxury sports timepiece, launched in 2019, is truly unique because of its unusual khaki-coloured dial and strap.

The Aquanaut evokes a sense of adventure and blends luxury lifestyle into sports, making it the perfect timepiece for any occasion.

The watch is surely a top choice for those who are looking to portray a young and dynamic style. Made with an 18K white gold case, the watch exhibits a sapphire crystal top glass that is scratch-resistant.

Shop the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G-010

Cartier Must WSTA0056

The Cartier Tank Must collection was one of the most successful launches in the watch world.

In 2021, Cartier released a series of new and colourful Cartier Tank Must watches, adding to the  already iconic collection.

Among the new additions was the luxury-green Cartier Must WSTA0056. This timepiece emanates vintage vibes and enriches the diversity of The Tank collection with the introduction of a bold and fresh green colour.

Quartz-powered and cased with stainless steel, the 25.5mm cased watch celebrates minimalist styling by removing the double C icon and the “must de” writing.

Shop the Cartier Must WSTA0056

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

In 2021, Tudor launched its very first green and gold Black Bay in the form of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K – a tribute to Tudors first divers’ watches.

This specific 39mm model pairs an olive-green dial and NATO strap with luxurious yellow gold.

Contrasting to past collections, Tudor also utilised solid gold all around its 39mm case, crown, and case back, differentiating itself as a distinctively opulent timepiece.

The limited edition is a perfect match for any formal occasion.

Shop a Tudor Black Bay

Panerai Luminor Submersible PAM00507

This limited edition Panerai Luminor Submersible PAM00507 is a wonderful diving watch, known as the “Bronzo”, featuring a 300m water resistance.

Panerai has a long history of making stylish and super-reliable watches for professional divers, beginning with its famed WWII contract for the Italian Navy’s “Frogmen”.

The PAM Submersible pieces are among Panerai’s finest diving tools. This sought-after limited edition is extra nautical thanks to its bronze case and deep green dial.

The “Bronzo” watch is a rare timepiece sought after timepiece collectors worldwide, now only available through pre-owned specialists.

Shop the Panerai Luminor Submersible PAM00507

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