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RGM Watch Co demonstrates mastery of grand feu enamel dials


American watchmaker RGM Watch Co has introduced a classic enamel dial with its PS-801-CE wristwatch.

The piece, which contains RGM’s Caliber 801 movement, borrows heavily from the design of traditional pocket watches and uses the same three layer dial architecture that has been adding depth to watch faces since the 19th century.

Creating an enamel watch dial is tough to master. It uses powdered glass applied to a metal plate that is heated to a temperature high enough to cause the glass to melt and form a new surface; a technique known by its French name, grand feu.

Repeated baking of successive layers of enamel at extremely high temperatures ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel, but the heat can create cracks or blemishes from uncontrolled melting of the glass. Done right, it produces a mirror-like bright white finish.



The watch is housed in a polished stainless steel Pennsylvania series case with large lugs and ribbed sides.

Like many of the components of the Caliber 801, the case is also made in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, and finished by hand.

It is sold in a stainless steel case for $11,900 and $24,700 in 18ct rose gold.




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