Rare Rolex and Patek Philippe watches headline February 24 auction


Gardiner Houlgate has launched its catalogue for its next watch auction on February 24.

There are 380 lots in the sale, which will be broadcast live as a webcast with an auctioneer calling online bids as they come in.

“During this lock down we are really pleased to present such an interesting mix of modern and vintage timepieces, including some showpieces among the 380 lots,” says David Hare, auctioneer & director at Gardiner Houlgate.


Headline watches in the sale, described by Gardiner Houlgate, are:

Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Milsub’ Submariner

Fine and Rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Milsub’ Submariner stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch, made for the British Royal Navy, ref. 5513/5517 double reference, circa 1978, serial no. 5339xxx, bi-directional fully calibrated 60-minute recording bezel insert, matt black ‘Swiss – T <25’ dial with luminous markers, Mercedes hands and sweep centre seconds, signed ‘Oyster Perpetual , 600ft=200m Submariner, printed Tritium ‘T’ within a circle, cal. 1520 26 jewel, shouldered screw-down crown, the inner case back with serial number 5339xxx and ‘5513’, the case back with markings polished out, fixed bar lugs with a modern NATO type fabric type band, 39mm

** Purchased several years ago from a family who’s late father was a Royal Navy serviceman. The watch was serviced by Rolex in August 2005 and comes with the Service Guarantee certificate. With a Rolex Oyster outer box and Oyster booklet. The Military issues markings have at some time been polished out of the case

Estimate £60,000-80,000

Rolex Prince Brancard ‘tiger stripe’

Rare and fine Rolex Prince Brancard ‘tiger stripe’ 18ct bicolour flared gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 971, circa 1933, serial no. 308xx, rectangular two-tone dial signed ‘Rolex Prince Chronometer’, with an Arabic numeral dial over subsidiary constant seconds, blued steel hands, Extra Prima 17 jewel timed 6 position movement with Patent Protective Cap, Hirsch green strap with a gold plated buckle, 43mm x 26mm

Estimate £9000-11,000

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Rare Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner stainless steel gentleman’s bracelet watch with the 3-6-9 ‘underline’ Explorer dial and pointed crown guard case, ref. 5513, circa 1963, serial no. 1009xxx, underline Swiss black dial with luminous hour baton markers, outer minute track, quarter 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and gilt dial printing ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 200=660ft Submariner‘, Mercedes hands with sweep centre seconds, Oyster case with revolving black calibrated bezel insert, pointed crown guards with screw-down crown, calibre 1530 26 jewel movement, the case inside back stamped ‘5513’ and dated ‘III.63’, jubilee bracelet with a large logo USA folding clasp, case, dial and movement signed, bezel diameter 40mm

 Provenance: During the Covid One Lockdown our client found the opportunity to carry out a tidy of house and home. On turning out a small family safe, they found this rare Rolex watch which had been forgotten about and had been there for some 30 – 35 years! The watch was a gift, along with two other items back in the 80’s, from an elderly gentleman and his wife in recognition of kindness to them in their later years

Estimate £70,000-100,000

Tudor Oyster-Prince Submariner

Rare Tudor Oyster-Prince Submariner gentleman’s stainless steel gentleman’s bracelet watch with the underline dial and pointed crown guard case, ref. 7928, circa 1963, serial no. 399xxx, Swiss gloss black dial with gilt text, lume markers and outer minute track, original Mercedes hands, marked ‘200m = 660ft Submariner, cal. 390 17 jewel movement, the inside case back stamped ‘7928’ ‘II.63’, Oyster bracelet, clasp dated ‘1.65’, bezel 40mm diameter

Estimate £6000-10,000

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Split-Seconds Chronograph

Very fine Patek Philippe Grand Complications Split-Seconds Chronograph platinum gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 5370P-001, black enamel dial with Breguet applied numerals, sapphire crystal and display back (also with solid back),  cal. CHR 29-535 PS 34 jewels movement, no. 52528xx/61447xx, Patek Philippe strap with folding platinum clasp, 41mm

Excellent condition with all the presentation boxes and related papers

Estimate £120,000-140,000

Patek Philippe & Co, Genéve Calatrava

Patek Philippe Calatrava stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch, ref. 96,circa 1940s, signed circular silvered dial with baton markers, outer dot minute markers and sunken subsidiary seconds dial, signed cal.12 18 jewel movement no. 928xxx, signed case no. 639xxx, the inside case back with the Taubert ‘FB’ trademark, modern black leather strap, 31mm

Estimate £4000-8000

IWC Ingenieur SL ‘Crest of Oman with Crown’

International Watch Co (IWC) Schaffhausen Ingenieur SL ‘Crest of Oman with Crown’ automatic stainless steel and 14ct gold gentleman’s bracelet watch, ref. 3506, serial no. 2353xxx, circa 1990s, circular silvered gridline dial, gold and black inset baton markers, minute markers, date aperture, sweep centre seconds and red crest of Oman with Royal Crown at the nine position, gold bezel, screw down crown with quick set date, cal. 3752 21 jewel movement with a gold self-winding rotor, no. 2394xxx, with gilded dust cover, IWC stainless steel and gold bracelet with folding clasp, 34mm

With IWC box, commissioned from IWC by the HRH Sultan Qaboos Bin Said of Oman, one of approximately 1000 produced.

Estimate £2000-3000

Longines C.O.S.D. British Military Paratroopers ‘Tuna Can’

Rare Longines C.O.S.D. British Military Paratroopers ‘Tuna Can’ gentleman’s wristwatch, circa 1940s, silvered dial with applied 12 & 24 hour Arabic numerals, luminous markers within outer tracking, military arrow, signed cal. 12.68N 16 jewel manual wind gilded movement, no. 6900xxx, the case with fixed bars, Company Ordnance Supply Depot issue markings ‘C.O.S.D. 2340’, original crown, brown leather strap, 36mm

Estimate £8000-12,000

Breguet 18ct pocket watch

Rare and fine Breguet 18ct pocket watch, No. 4833, circa 1904, with independent seconds, split second function and five minute repeating activated with two buttons and slide to the case band, stem wind on two spring barrels, gilt jeweled 19 lignes lever movement with compensated balance and hammers striking on gongs, signed and numbered white dial with Roman dial and outer Arabic track, blued steel hands, the cuvette signed and numbered, the case back with engraved monogram, case. 16230, 113.1gm, 51.5mm

** with ‘J et B Rosseels’ box

** With a certificate of Origin supplied by Emmanuel Breguet in December 2017 confirming the watch was sold to Monsieur Legros on the 8th August 1919

** Lucien Alphose Legros (1866-1933) – was the eldest son of Professor Alphonse Legros, a well known artist who emigrated to London. After serving a general engineering apprenticeship and holding several positions, his interest in motor vehicles started in 1904 as a partner in Legros and Knowles, manufacturers of the Iris car. In WWI he worked on the design of tanks and was the President of the Institution of Automobile Engineers in 1911-12 and 1915-17. He died in June 1933 following a street accident 

Estimate £20,000-30,000

Previous articleVacheron Constantin channels trade-in watches to Richemont stablemate Watchfinder
Next articleTHE BIG INTERVIEW: Zadok Jewelers’ power move


Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here