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ASK ARIEL: Should jewelers keep working with independent watchmakers?

Ariel Adams

In this first of a series of guest columns, Ariel Adams, owner and editor-in-chief for aBlogtoWatch, answers questions on behalf of WatchPro readers. Click here to Ask Ariel anything you like!

Ariel replies: The question appears to be whether or not third-party authorized dealers (aka “jewelers” in this instance) should moving forward continue to work with smaller, independently owned and operated watch making companies. In reality, the definition of what an independent watch maker is would be a more complicated discussion than trying to define what a jeweler is today… but I digress.

Does it make good business sense for watch retailers to carry watches from presumably less well-known and well-funded brands? The form of the question appears to suggest that most jewelers would answers in the negative, that no, they shouldn’t work with independent watchmakers.

I would disagree and suggest that independent jewelers in many ways a lot to gain by promoting the work of independent watchmakers.

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The reason this question exists in the first place is because watch retailers today – especially jewelers whose main business might be diamonds and gold in addition to timepiece – need to increasingly evaluate the value of their retail price.

The interest of a retailer is to stock products which move, so that money can be made and new products can come in. Independently-made watches arrive with less consumer awareness and markedly lower marketing budgets than the big brands.

This fact tends to translate into the situation where independent watches require more time and effort to sell, and thus can be more challenging to effectively monetize.

There are some schools of thought which believe that a retailer should carry the most marketed brands because those brands will have the most in-store turn around and thus profit.

If that was the case then some of the world’s most powerful retailers wouldn’t be so heavily invested in independent watches. Even though obscure products are more challenging to sell, retailers report that they are both more gratifying to sell and lead to deeper consumer relationships.

This latter fact is probably a result of the retailer and consumer forming at least a conversational relationship as a function facilitating the purchase in the first place. Independent watches will never “sell themselves” like a Rolex, but when sold they can lead to long-term customer relationships that make up the bread and butter money making backbone of most jewelers.

It takes enthusiasm and passion to properly sell independently made watches. Consumers arrive into a store with little to no understanding or awareness of many independent brands and that requires showmanship and storytelling to properly reserve.

My experience in the market is that only the top percentile of watch retailers will ever embody the sufficient enthusiasm and education to get many customers excited about interesting albeit unknown luxury watch brands.

Those that do are rewarded with success as well as the deserved reputation for being able to move such products. That will in-turn give them greater ability to sell ever more exclusive products.

Jewelers who traditionally focus on larger, more corporate luxury watch makers are often romanced by the promise of greater exclusivity and customer excitement by stocking independent brands.

Jewelers typically have more leverage in retailer relationships with smaller watch brands and in many instances margins can be higher.

With that said, many of those same jewelers underestimate the investment necessary in human capital. Meaning hiring, training, and retaining good sales staff.

In my opinion a well-rounded watch retailer always has at least 25-30% of their inventory as more interesting, harder to find brands. Which brands? It is really just a matter of taste.

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Ariel Adams

The author Ariel Adams

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