2017 NOVELTIES: Bulgari seduced by the dark side for its Octonero


Like its larger LVMH watch brand stablemates, Bulgari is embracing a dark aesthetic this year with the release of Ultranero models for its Octo range.

The masculine watch is offered in all-black (black hands and markers on a black dial) or with red contrasts for its hands and hour-markers standing out against the jet-black background.

The 2017 Octo’s less angular case has been given a black carbon treatment that would not look out of place on the underside of a stealth bomber. The eight-sided Octo case, Bulgari says, is complex yet simple; geometrical but not at all inflexible. Just like Italian men, the brand suggests.

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The watches use the bi-directional mechanical self-winding Calibre BVL 193 movement, with twin barrels delivering 50 hours of power to the hours, minutes, seconds and date window at 3 o’clock.

102762_LUP23WGL/12-Lucea Lady

For customers wanting even more stand-out design and complications from Bulgari, the Octo has been given a skeletonised dial in its Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton, which the company says is the world’s smallest watch to offer such an array of features thanks to the use of the Bulgari BVL 268 Finissimo caliber, which still claims the world slimness record for a tourbillon movement.

Bulgari is best known for its fine jewellery, and has not forgotten its legion of female customers. The Serpenti has been received an update with new materials and finishes, while the Lucea has been given an oversized moonphase on 28mm and 33mm diamond-studded watch faces.

The striking black ceramic and gold Serpenti.
The striking black ceramic and gold Serpenti.


The Bulgari Lucea with its elegant oversized moonphase.

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Rob Corder

The author Rob Corder